Topics

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Angkor & the Temples

The Angkor Pass, the sunrise, the small and grand circuits, Ta Prohm, Bayon and Banteay Srei: which temples deserve the heat and which do not.

10 in-depth guides

Day Trips & Beyond Angkor

Beng Mealea, Phnom Kulen, Koh Ker, the Tonle Sap villages and Battambang: what each day costs, how long the road is, and when to leave.

4 in-depth guides

Areas & Neighborhoods

Old Market and Pub Street, Wat Bo, Sok San, the riverside and the resort strip: what each part of town feels like and who should sleep there.

3 in-depth guides

Getting There & Around

The new airport 50 km out of town, the e-Visa, the bus from Phnom Penh, flights from Bangkok while the land border is closed, and what a tuk-tuk ride should cost.

6 in-depth guides

Food & Drink

Amok done properly, Khmer kitchens by neighborhood, street food on Road 60, cooking classes and the honest truth about Pub Street.

4 in-depth guides

Culture, Arts & Evening Shows

Phare, Apsara dance, shadow puppets and the dinner shows compared, plus the museums that explain the temples and the country.

4 in-depth guides

Nature, Wildlife & Tonle Sap

The lake in both seasons, the bird sanctuary, elephants without riding, cycling through rice fields and the sunset hill nobody visits.

2 in-depth guides

Itineraries

Hour-by-hour plans for one, two, three and five days, built around the 5 a.m. start, the midday heat and the 6 p.m. light.

5 in-depth guides

When to Visit & Weather

Month by month: the heat of April, the rains that empty the temples, the December crowds and what the Tonle Sap does in between.

3 in-depth guides

Family Travel

Siem Reap with children: which temples hold their attention, the stairs, the heat, the pools and what to do when it rains.

2 in-depth guides

Budget, Money & Practical

What a day costs, dollars and riel, the scams that still work, tipping, SIM cards, pharmacies and what to pack.

2 in-depth guides

Nightlife & Bars

Pub Street for people who would rather not, the bars away from the noise, the night markets and live music.

1 in-depth guide

Hotels & Where to Stay

Where to stay by neighborhood and traveler type, boutique hotels that earn the name, pools worth coming back for, honeymoon and family picks.

6 in-depth guides

Shopping & Markets

Old Market, Made in Cambodia, the night markets and Psar Leu, plus what is actually Cambodian: krama, silk, Kampot pepper, silver.

1 in-depth guide

Responsible Travel

Why not to visit an orphanage, what ethical means for elephants, temple etiquette, water and plastic.

1 in-depth guide